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About two weeks before the kittens are due, a nesting box (or queening box) should be introduced to the expectant mother. (see article on Gestation in Cats) This box should be made from a washable material and located in a warm and secluded area. The bottom of the box should be lined with an absorbent material that can be changed frequently. Newspapers, towels, or clean rags make excellent bed liners.

The first stage of labor may last anywhere from several hours to an entire day (24 hours). The queen is restless, fidgety, and usually refuses to eat. The expectant mother may pace about the house or begin digging in the queening box. Abdominal contractions signal the end of this period and the beginning of active labor.

Straining of the stomach muscles (contractions) marks the beginning of the second phase of labor. As the mother continues to strain, less time elapses between contractions. Generally within 15 minutes to one hour after contractions begin, a fluid-filled sac appears at the vaginal opening. This sac surrounds the first kitten.

After several contractions, the first kitten is born. The time interval between successive kittens can range anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours. Some experienced mothers are able to complete the entire birthing process in 30 minutes.

Generally when each kitten is born, it is enclosed in a membrane or sac. The mother usually licks the kitten's face and breaks the sac. If this sac is not immediately broken by the mother, human intervention is required. The sac must be opened, and the kitten's face must be rubbed. Rubbing the kitten's face with a clean cloth is an excellent method to stimulate breathing. Sometimes the kitten is born without a membrane or sac. If this occurs, the sac will follow the kitten, arriving together with the umbilical cord.

There are two normal positions for delivery. The kittens can come out "head first" or "rear first". A "rear first" delivery is generally more difficult than a "head first" delivery.

Human intervention is required when a kitten is lodged in the birth canal. When this occurs (and the mother is not able to expel the kitten herself), the mother must be restrained and gentle traction applied to the kitten. The kitten is grasped with a clean dry towel and pulled in a downward position, toward the mother's feet. When a kitten is lodged in the birth canal for a considerable amount of time, it is usually born dead.

A greenish-black discharge occurs between births. This discharge is normal and is often blood-tinged. If a reddish discharge occurs at the beginning of labor, and the expectant mother strains for more than one hour without delivering kittens, immediate veterinary attention is required.

After each kitten is born, the remaining portion of the sac should be removed from it's face. Any mucus surrounding the nostrils should be cleared away. Kittens should be dried with a clean towel and rubbed in order to stimulate breathing. Using a fine-diameter thread, each umbilical cord should be tied about one inch from the kitten's belly. The cord is cut on the far side of the knot, and the remaining stump (with the cord) is dipped into a white iodine solution. If the kittens are similar looking, it is best to number each one with a permanent marker.

Nursing Kittens

When the mother is relaxed and she settles down with her kittens, it is safe to assume that the birthing process is over. A small amount of vaginal bleeding is normal and this often continues for 2 or 3 days. If bleeding seems heavy or continues beyond this period, veterinary attention is required.

The costs of veterinary health care, much like those of human health care, are rising and many pet owners are turning to pet health insurance to help defray some of those costs. Unlike human health care, you don't need pet health insurance to ensure your vet treats your animal companion. For pets, insurance coverage is a choice, not a necessity. But as the pet insurance industry has changed in recent years, more options are available to pet owners for coverage levels and care options than before.

Pet insurance policies are largely similar to human insurance policies. There are annual premiums and deductibles, and plans are based on age, medical conditions, a pet's lifestyle and species. Some policies provide comprehensive coverage, and will reimburse owners for costs associated with annual wellness exams, vaccinations and other routine visits; other policies will cover only accidents or injuries. Depending on the policy you chose, there may be limits on coverage for pre-existing medical conditions for older pets.

Pet insurance plans differ from human insurance when it comes to filing claims. Following a procedure - a TPLO surgery, for example - the owner will pay the veterinarian directly and then submit a claim to the insurance provider for reimbursement. How much the insurance company pays all depends on the policy and the procedure. Some plans, such as the one offered by PetFirst Healthcare, do not cover "cosmetic or preventative surgeries" such as declawing procedures, anal sac removal and ear cropping and tail docking. Other plans, like the one offered by ShelterCare, cover cancer treatment but do not cover spay/neuter procedures. Other popular providers include Veterinary Pet Insurance and Pet's Best. Even organizations like the ASPCA and the American Kennel Club offer insurance plans.

The costs for pet insurance are small compared to human insurance, with monthly costs averaging about $30 and deductibles averaging about $100. Most plans begin enrolling pets at around 8 weeks of age and limit enrollment to pets under eight to 10 years of age (though if the pet was enrolled before this limit, he or she will remain covered).

What should you watch out for when purchasing pet insurance? First, make sure your veterinarian is approved by your provider. Some providers limit coverage to certain veterinarians in a network or provider list, though most pet insurance companies allow owners to use the veterinarian of their choice. Next, review the exclusions in the policy. Some plans will cover pre-existing medical conditions if they are stabilized, while others may exclude some conditions and procedures all together. Also look at the various caps (maximum amount paid) for each claim. In some cases, a provider will use an annual cap, limiting the amount of reimbursements paid out over a year, while in other cases, a lifetime cap may be applied.

Pet insurance is not the only option when it comes to covering health care costs for your pet. Some veterinary hospitals accept CareCredit, which reimburses veterinarians for expensive procedures and allows clients to set up extended payment plans. Meanwhile, some veterinary hospitals offer wellness packages for new kittens and puppies. These packages offer a combination of services (wellness exams, vaccinations, diagnostic tests, etc.) at a reduced rate for new pet owners.

Springtime is fast approaching and your thoughts may be turning toward landscaping your yard and planting a new garden. Whatever your plans, take care when using cocoa mulch for your garden and landscaping needs. Cocoa mulch contains cocoa bean shells that are toxic to your pet.

Cocoa mulch is hazardous to your pet in the same way that chocolate and chocolate-containing products are dangerous to your four-legged friend. Like candies and other chocolate treats, cocoa bean shells contain theobromine, a naturally occurring chemical, similar to caffeine. Because dogs metabolize theobromine slowly, it can have a serious effect on your dog’s heart, kidneys and central nervous system. (Cats are also susceptible to theobromine poisoning; however, cats are less likely to eat chocolate because they lack sweet taste receptors on their tongues.)

Cocoa mulch has a strong chocolate smell - just the sort of odor that attracts curious canine noses and appetites. Because of this, dogs may eagerly ingest cocoa mulch. The results are similar to the poisoning experienced when dogs each chocolate products; however, because cocoa mulch contains a higher concentration of theobromine, a small quantity of mulch can mean big problems for your pet.

In small quantities, a dog may experience upset stomach, vomiting and diarrhea. However, dogs eating a large quantity of cocoa mulch can experience tachycardia (rapid heart rate), muscle tremors, seizures and, in rare cases, death. The severity of the reaction depends on the size and weight of the dog and the quantity of mulch eaten. According to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, 2 ounces of mulch eaten by a 50-pound dog will cause upset stomach; 4.5 ounces of mulch will cause increased heart rate and 5.3 ounces will cause seizures. Any quantity of mulch more than 9 ounces can cause death, according to the ASPCA.

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center collected data on 16 cases of cocoa mulch poisoning between January 2002 and April 2003. The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center studied six of those cases and found that vomiting occurred in half the cases. In 33 percent of the cases, tremors were reported and in 17 percent of the cases, rapid heartbeat, hyperactivity and diarrhea were reported. The results of the ASPCA study are located here.

Pet owners are encouraged to use other varieties of mulch for their garden and landscaping needs. Cedar chips and straw are less toxic to dogs than cocoa mulch, though some brands may contain oils and resins that can cause upset stomach in pets. If your dog has eaten cocoa bean mulch, contact your veterinarian immediately or call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435. Treatment will depend on the quantity of mulch eaten, when it was eaten and the symptoms your dog is showing.

Cancer is an often life-threatening disease that many people think affects only humans. So, it often comes as a shock to many pet owners when their pet is diagnosed with cancer.

Cancer in animals is unfortunately not uncommon and is very similar to cancer in humans. Like humans, the causes of cancer can either be genetic or environmental. The common types of cancer seen in companion animals are diagnosed more frequently only because we can detect them more easily. These cancers involve the lymph nodes, limbs or skin tumors. Tumors located in organs or inside body cavities are more difficult to diagnose and are often not detected until the animal develops clinical symptoms.

Know the Signs of Cancer in Pets

There are a number of indications that an animal may have cancer. The best way to detect the commonly diagnosed types of cancer is for owners to carefully feel their animals all over once a week. It is also a good idea for owners to try and look inside their pets mouths once a week. Owners should pet their animals thoroughly once a week and feel for abnormal lumps, bumps, swellings, and any area that's just plain painful. Open, ulcerated wounds that take a long time to heal (or not heal at all) might be another potential sign of cancer.

Some non-specific symptoms of cancer include a lack of appetite, weight loss, vomiting, or diarrhea. Also, certain breeds are more prone to cancer than others. Breeds such as boxers, Bernese mountain dogs, and golden retrievers are overrepresented in the development of cancer. There have even been studies that have traced the family trees of dogs. These studies have suggested a genetic predisposition in certain families.

Bernese Mountain Dog

In order to identify the exact type of cancer, aspirates and biopsies are performed. Once the cancer is identified, it is "staged". This is accomplished by performing additional diagnostic tests such as lymph node sampling, ultrasonography and / or radiology examination.

Often, the diagnosis of cancer leaves owners feeling that there is no hope for their pet. However, many types of cancer can be successfully treated and these pets can return to a normal life.

Treatment depends on the type and location of the cancer. If possible, surgical removal of the tumor is performed. Some types of cancer are responsive to chemotherapy, which include a variety of oral and intravenous medications. Dogs and cats tend to tolerate chemotherapy well and rarely develop the same side effects that are seen in humans. Prior to treatment, blood and urine tests are performed to asses the overall health of the pet to be sure they are good candidates for treatment.

Before beginning a cancer treatment, many things need to be taken into consideration. Most important is the animal's quality of life verses the aggressiveness of the treatment. The same types of drugs that are used in human cancer therapy are used in veterinary cancer therapy. The chief difference is that we tend to use lower doses at less frequent intervals.

Chemotherapy is one form of cancer therapy offered at Veterinary Specialists of Rochester. Our primary goal is to obtain a cure. If a cure is not possible, the goal of chemotherapy is to provide a better quality of life for your pet. We recommend treatment only if it is appropriate for your pet.

Our chemotherapy protocols are designed so pets don't become terribly ill. In fact, many pet owners don't even realize that their pet has had chemotherapy. Less than 5 percent of the animals develop severe vomiting, diarrhea or a severe drop in their blood counts. Compared to the side effects of chemotherapy in humans, hair loss is very uncommon in pets.

For many people, their pets are more than just animals; they are members of their family. Usually pet owners want to do everything that they can to prolong their pets' lives and keep them feeling healthy. Chemotherapy is an excellent method for treating many types of cancer in pets.

So you've added a pet cat to your family. Maybe you imagined yourself sitting down with a big furry Persian in front of the fireplace, petting him and listening to him purr. Or maybe you liked the idea of having a perky little tabby greet you at the door after your work day was finished. Perhaps it was the thought of a playful kitten waking you up in the morning.

Cats can be wonderful companions. But sometimes things don't work out exactly the way you thought they would. Maybe your new cat would rather rest on the chair at the other end of the room than lie down on the sofa next to you. Or perhaps your cat has even hissed at or scratched you when you tried to pick him up.

Often, when people don't live happily with their cats, it's because the pet owners didn't establish a good bonding when they first brought the kitty home.

Bonding is the first step toward successfully living with your cat. Bonding means creating a personal relationship between you and your pet. This includes mutual respect, trust and love. You are a special person to your cat, and your cat should be special to you.

It's important that each member of the household develops his or her own unique relationship with the family cat. The person who bathes, feeds and trains the cat may bond as a substitute mother. A child who plays with the cat may relate to him as a brother or sister, and the person who sits quietly with the cat on his or her lap and pets him may bond as a friend.

It's easiest to bond with a new kitten, but even if your cat is an adult and you've had him for several months or even years, it's still possible to strengthen the bond you have with him if you are willing to work at it.

Here are 10 suggestions for building a solid bond with your feline friend:

1. Include your cat in your daily activities. Invite your cat to be with you while you clean house, watch television, sort through the mail, work at the computer or read the newspaper. The more activities your cat observes you doing, the more he will trust you in all situations.


2. Talk often to your cat. Verbal communication is one of the most important aspects of bonding. Don't feel silly sitting down and talking to your cat. He may not understand the words you use, but he can understand a warm, friendly tone of voice. Use your cat's name often. This will grab his attention and establish a personal relationship between the two of you.


3. Get to know your cat's individual personality. Every cat is different; some are shy and independent, while others are outgoing and crave attention. Adapt your lifestyle to the particular personality of your cat. Try different behaviors on your cat and see what works. If you want your cat to be affectionate, you have to determine what you can do to make him act that way.


4. Provide a consistent daily routine. Cats don't like surprises. They feel safe and secure with a routine. Establish an acceptable daily schedule with your cat early in the relationship. Let him know how often and when to expect meals, walks on the leash and play sessions. Don't spend two hours a day with your cat one week and only a few minutes a day with him the following week. You also should be consistent with the behaviors you allow and don't allow. Don't yell "no" when he jumps on the counter today and then let it slide tomorrow. If you are inconsistent in how you interact with your cat, you will confuse him and he won't feel as though he can trust you.


5. Give a new cat plenty of privacy. When you bring a new cat into your home, you should give him a room of his own for two to four weeks. Sit in the room for an hour a day, reading or just relaxing, but don't force the cat to interact with you. Make yourself available, but let your cat be the one to make the first move. If your cat starts walking toward you, put some catnip or other treat around your chair. This encourages the cat to move toward you. Never reach out to grab a frightened cat nor drag a cat out from under a chair. It's important that you respect your cat's fears and inhibitions. Remind yourself that he is in a new environment. Go especially slow with an older, adopted cat who may have been a stray. Give your cat time to see you're not a threat, and eventually he will leave himself open to develop a relationship with you.


6. Avoid harsh corrections. If your cat misbehaves, do not hit, holler or punish him. You can tell him "no," but do so only to stop unacceptable behavior. Don't yell or scream. You can use a squirt bottle or air horn to stop your cat from scratching your furniture or drapes, but be careful not to link yourself with the correction. Hide the squirt bottle as you spray. You want your cat to think the drapes have a life of their own, that the drapes did the squirting. If the cat thinks you did it, it may be harder to bond with him.


7. Provide frequent play and exercise. Play with your cat several times each day using tossed toys, fishing pole toys, rolled balls or other interactive cat toys. By playing with your cat and giving him things to do, you build a bond because the cat is thinking, 'when mom or dad is home, I have more fun.' This causes the cat to welcome you that much more. If you're a positive object in your cat's life, he's going to seek you out. Avoid tug-of-war and other games that encourage aggressive behavior. Resist the temptation to roll your cat on his back and rub his tummy. When you do that, you encourage the cat to use his claws and teeth on your hands. It seems like that's a lot of fun, but cats get overexcited and can become quite aggressive as a result.


8. Touch with affection. Show your cat you care about him - stroke his fur, pat his head, scratch behind his ears, even gently squeeze his paws. Physical contact is a wonderful way to make your cat feel loved. However, avoid quick, jerky movements that might startle him.

9. Hold your cat securely. Pick up your cat firmly, but gently, supporting his entire body. If you let his limbs dangle, he will resist and may struggle or bite you. Hold your cat by sliding your right hand between his front legs and around his upper body. Put your left hand under his rear end and around the outside of his body, pulling him into you so he feels secure. You want your cat to trust you; you don't want him to feel as though you're going to drop him.


10. Give your cat the time he needs. Some people buy a cat and want a best friend immediately. Bonding is not automatic. It may take a couple of weeks to bond with a kitten and several months to bond with an older cat. Having a strong bond with your cat takes time. Go slowly and don't expect too much too fast.

You will have both good and bad days with your cat. Like people, now and then cats get grumpy, be patient and understanding. Treat your cat as a good friend and sooner than later, he'll be one.

A well-behaved dog is the product of teaching him to understand what is expected; you are responsible to teach him what behavior is or is not tolerated. As the owner of a new puppy, training is necessary and mutually beneficial. Young puppies are a veritable behavioral blank slate. If you are able to take advantage of this special time and begin temperament and basic obedience training using gentle, positive reinforcement methods, you are much more likely to end up with a well-behaved, sociable companion for life.

Benefits of early puppy training include:

• Instilling good manners
• Utilizing your puppy's critical socialization period to familiarize him with all kinds of people, animals, and environments
• Getting him used to being handled and touched
• Stimulating his abilities
• Troubleshooting common puppy problems like play-biting, chewing, digging and housebreaking before they become inconvenient dog problems

Obedience Training

The classes to look for should include information and instruction on how to communicate with your puppy. Housetraining, chewing, bite inhibition, off-leash socialization, handling, house manners and often an introduction to basic obedience skills should be part of your puppy's program. Imagine a pre-school for pups!

Once your puppy has become a socialized member of the canine community and is old enough to being learning commands, classes are usually available at a variety of levels. These classes start from the beginning, covering basic commands such as sit, stay, down, come, etc. They help you continue the "conversation" you had begun with your puppy at your first puppy class. By having everyone in your family participate, your puppy learns to accept his place in the family.

• Keep sessions short (around 5-10 minutes) as dogs generally have short attention spans.
• Determine what kind of positive reinforcement training you are going to use and stick with it. If your puppy is not responsive to food, try a favorite toy or enthusiastic verbal praise.
• Consult with a training school or personal trainer (yup, dogs have them too!) to help establish a routine.
• Initiate consistent house rules with other family members. If Mom says "lay down" but Dad says "down", it could cause confusion, thwarting progress.

Ultimately, how much and how well your puppy learns is up to you. Constant attention and positive reinforcement are the keys to success. Helping your puppy become a fun-loving and obedient companion also makes your relationship that much more enjoyable in the long run.

Lyme disease, an illness that is transmitted by hard-bodied ticks such as the deer tick, is a serious disease affecting humans and pets across the country. While being around ticks may be hard to avoid, there are many things you can do to prevent Lyme disease from becoming a debilitating disorder for you and your pets.

Although Lyme disease has been diagnosed in people in all 50 states, over 80 percent of human cases have occurred in the eastern states from Massachusetts to Virginia. The disease was named after Lyme, Connecticut, where the first human cases occurred in 1975. Ticks obtain the disease from the mammals they feed on, which include rodents and deer, and pass it on to humans and other animals, such as dogs, through a bite. Symptoms of the disease in humans include a rash and / or symptoms of the flu, followed by joint pain and possible arthritis.

Pets handle the disease differently, however. For example, canines will not show signs of the disease for several weeks or months after infection. If it is caught early, they will respond quickly to a round of antibiotics. Symptoms in dogs include arthritis and occasional fever. If undiagnosed for a long period of time, dogs can develop glomerular disease, a type of kidney damage caused by overstimulation of the immune system by an infectious organism.

Similarly, the methods for prevention of infection differ for humans and animals. A vaccine exists for dogs, which should be boostered annually. It is also advisable to avoid tick-infested areas, if possible. Use of a tick collar or monthly topical preventative such as Frontline Plus, K9 Advantix or other similar product and careful examination of your pet after she or he has been in an area that ticks may be present are additional ways to prevent Lyme disease in your dog.

While the FDA approved a human vaccine in 1998, it was removed from the market in 2002 due to poor sales, according to the Winter 2001 / Spring 2002 issue of “The Lyme Times” (a publication of the Lyme Disease Research Center). The Centers for Disease Control recommends that people follow these guidelines to avoid or prevent ticks from biting:

• Use a repellent with DEET on skin or clothing or permethrin on clothing and wear long sleeves, long pants and socks. Do not allow children to apply repellants with DEET themselves.
• Wear light-colored clothing, so that you can see ticks if they are crawling on your clothing.
• Tuck your pant legs into your socks so that ticks cannot crawl up your legs.
• Examine yourself for ticks after being outdoors and remove any ticks you find.

Being outdoors is a fun way to spend time with your family and pets, and it also gives your pet the exercise he or she needs for a healthy lifestyle. Following these guidelines can help safeguard the people and animals in your life, ensuring fun and good times for all.